DIY Extra 12 Volt Outlets for Phones

Extra 12 Volt Outlets for Phones

A recent urgent message on the CMCA site asking anyone in the Kimberly WA region to get a message to a member of our local chapter, as they do not travel with a mobile phone, really brought it home to us how important, these taken for granted gadgets are. In this day and age it is probably unwise to venture out on the open road without a mobile phone, as you can own one for as little as $10.00 a month. Even if you NEVER make a call you can be contacted in an emergency. Don't forget though, if you use call forwarding from your home phone you WILL BE CHARGED for all incoming calls. In reading the ads put out by the various companies spruking 94% of the population is covered, you do get the false impression that coverage is enormous. In real life this just isn't so, as driving from Brisbane to Sydney on the Pacific Highway there are dozens of areas with zero signal with either service. Things are improving all the time and you can even it up a little by utilising the two different systems - GSM and CDMA. We have done this by having "His" and "Hers" mobiles. To reduce our overall phone costs we have standardised on Telstra - they also have the largest network, and you can dial into the internet for the cost of a local call from ANYWHERE in Australia via landline. We don't particularly like Telstra but they really are the only choice for travellers on the road.

Rather oddly the Freeway comes as standard without even one 12 volt outlet except of course the one in the drivers cab. This project remedies this and solves a few other problems along the way. We have installed two outlets near the ceiling by the door and have finished it off nicely by using a couple of very neat Universal Phone Holders Type 2 from Dick Smith - these are pictured above and really work well. The catalogue number is E 3098 HUN12. These cost $24.00 each and can be adjusted to suit most size phones or even used to hold your Uniden UHF radios. They simply screw on.

If you have never worked with electricity before you can still have a go at this project as it really isn't that hard and it is an ideal beginners project. It is perfectly legal to work on extra low voltage DC. Winnebago very cleverly conceal all their wiring in the "hollow" between the bottom of the overhead cupboards. With this project we will tap into this simply by removing a light fitting, drilling a hole and then running very neat computer conduit to the end of the cupboard. You can if you wish leave out the conduit and use black split loom conduit and lots of clips or you could buy heavier twin sheathed cable and use lots of "P" clips. We prefer the computer conduit as it is "forever", looks very neat, you can EASILY add more cable later and is extremely safe from damage, even if things move around inside the cupboard. On fuses the Freeway is not very sophisitated and almost everything goes through a 30 amp glass in-line fuse on top of the house battery. We suggest that you don't run hair dryers out of your new socket as it is quite a long run of cable plus cigarette lighter sockets are not at all suitable for high current devices. They can "arc" and this leads to wiring over heating and possibly to fire eventually if the load continiues for long enough. Yes they are rated at 10 amps but please don't use them at this level but instead install "polarised" sockets from Clipsal or HPM. You can get these at Caravan Accessories or Camec or larger electrical wholesalers.

Now a bit of buyer beware talk! There are heaps of el-cheapo lighter sockets out there and dreadful double adaptors - please oh please DON'T use them as they just don't last in RV's and some can turn into a fire hazard if connections are poor. We use a really nice marine grade outlet which even comes with a spare plug. (under $20.00) It also has a very easy to use cover, to stop anything falling inside - VERY important if you mount them on a horizontal surface, as if say a 5 cent piece fell inside, you could get a short circuit. The cover also allows you to use it outside for things like 12 volt showers.

You do need crimping pliers to do this job properly. There are inexpensive ($20.00) models available (the orange ones below) but if you can please avoid these as you do not get really strong connections. A better bet is to lash out on a terminal kit ($100.00) that comes complete with far better pliers (the yellow ones shown below). Top quality pliers (crimping tool) are also available from elecrical wholesalers such as Haymans - expect to pay from $60.00. You used to be able to get these from Dick Smiths, but we can't find them on their Internet site at present. Another good thing to treat yourself to, or give to the light of your life as a thoughtful present, is a digital multi meter. These only cost $25.00 from Dick Smiths and quite frankly we never leave home without one. Just as an aside, you can install one of these permanently to measure/monitor battery voltage very accurately and cheaper than anything else using a conventional "dial". Not that hard to do and to make it look like it was meant to be. We recently came across one on the switchboard of a very expensive motorhome. A great idea!

The chances of you having the correct drill is pretty remote! The Speed Bores shown below can make life very easy and we suggest you purchase a set. This is more economical than buying single drills. You will need a 1 1/8" for this project. If money is no object your best bet to hop out and buy a hole saw and adaptor as these are easier to use.

Material List

The list below is for installing one outlet. We strongly suggest you install two as the extra cost is minimal and it tends to make you future proof. On colour coding of wire, we used the purple and white as it is fairly common in RV's. Winnebago use their own system. It is not critical but it is important to be consistent if you do multiple projects.

	Small length of white and purple 4mm cable - we used Tycab Australia Auto Cable
	3 X plastic P clips - Dick Smith or auto electrician
	3 X self tappers no longer than 15mm to suit P clips - any hardware shop
	2 X quick connect slicing connectors - Dick Smith or auto electrician
	Plywood and light timber for frame
	1 X two pole electrical joiner or two screw type cable joiners (connectors)
	*1 X marine type 12 volt socket - ours came from Auto Electrical ()**
	2 X metres of computer conduit - Bunnings
	2 X spade type crimp terminals - insulated is best - Dick Smith or auto electrician

(*) Note: These sockets are sometimes hard to find. Camec, Whitworths Marine and Caravan Accessories do list them. We use Auto Electrical Parts Supplies, Cnr. Moss and Pacific Highway, Slacks Creek, Qld, 4127. (07) 3208 5533. Their internal part number is AC 205150 and it comes with a plug as well. Please DON'T use the el-cheapo ones sold in car accessory shops. Our contact, but since retired caravanning mate, may be able to help if you have troubles - Gordon Boon.

The photo above shows how you use computer conduit. It simply clips together. This is readily available from Bunnings in the Electrical Section and comes in three sizes around $20.00 a length. The middle size has the most uses and is easier to run extra cables later.

Tools Needed

Before you start, get the following tools together. It is a good idea to have the vacuum cleaner handy as well. Just a quick word on Speedbores. Like everything, there is a lot of rubbish out there. Try to get the type with the two little spurs on the bottom as these cut far cleaner - we use Irwin brand. The Speedbore has zero troubles getting through the Laminex.

	Electric drill— anything around 1/4” or bigger
	A 1 1/8” Speedbore spade type drill OR a 1 1/8” holesaw
	Philips head screwdriver
	Rule or tape measure
	Anything that will cut the cable—pliers, tin snips, big scissors, side cutters
	Pair of pliers or multigrips
	Small piece of sandpaper—medium
	Hand saw

Measuring

We suggest you use these measurements as they seem to work on all current 1753's and the 2104 - remember that yours COULD be different though! Try to look into the future to see if you will be putting anything else in the immediate area - see our "thoughts" at the bottom of this page. Measure 1 1/2" down and 1 3/4" in from the wall. If fitting two units we used 2 1/2" centres. Best to use a soft pencil such as a 2B. Use a nail to mark the correct spot to stop your drill wandering and making the surface.

Installation

You need to drill a 1 1/8" hole. I find it best to drill a small pilot hole right through say 1/8" first. Whether you use a Speedbore 2000 or a hole saw, ONLY drill through HALF WAY then finish from the other side. You DO need to take your time doing this. If you don't have a steady hand it is better to roughly screw a piece of scrap on the INSIDE face then drill straight through. The tiny holes will be covered with the plywood cover.

The electrical wiring is the fun part! It is best to turn off the 12 volt DC at the brown switch near the 240 volt mainswitch on the side of the wardrobe. You can if you wish also take the fuse out of the inline holder on top of the house battery. Next you must remove the light fitting. Just squeeze the covers gently whilst pulling downwards. Remove the four screws in each corner and the two in the middle. We were pleasantly suprised to find that Winnebago had used stainless steel screws. Wonderful stuff guys - not too many manufacturers would be conscientious enough to do this in areas "hidden from view".

The next bit is a bit tricky, so please take your time. We need to feed two wires up inside the cupboard. You need to drill a 1 1/8" or similar at the far right of the fitting as per the photo on the right above. This is to allow us access to push the wires through into the inside wall of the cupboard. Whatever you do DON'T GO OUTSIDE THE SCREW HOLES. Look at the photo below and you will notice the internal computer conduit. It also runs along the top of the cupboard right up to the inside right of the locker. Cut and screw in place. Drill holes from inside where the left conduit touches the inside bottom of the cupboard. Don't do too deep. Feed up a couple of wires from the bottom right through to the end on the conduit and out the 1 1/8" hole you drilled for the socket. Clip the covers back onto the attached conduit. This can all be a bit tricky and tedious!

Next drill a couple of holes where the cables emerge for the light as per the photo further back up this page. All you are doing here is making enough room to fit the connector up inside the cupboard bottom. You don't see this, so looking messy (like ours!) isn't a problem. Cut both the wires holding up the light and place the connector block on the end. On the opposite side of the connector insert your purple and white wires. Please strip for 5 - 10 mm first. Perfectionists should "tin" the bare wire! Reassemble the light assembly being careful not to overtighten the screws as you are only going into 3mm plywood. NOTE: It's best to use your metre to determine polarity when trying to work out what colour goes to what. We can't say it here as Winnebago could easily change their colours.

Polarity (+ & -) is IMPORTANT in this project. Be absolutely certain you ONLY join white wires to white wires. The same with purple ones (positive). We always use the same coding - PURPLE is always positive. This goes to the centre contact of the socket.

Push the wires through the 1 1/8" hole and crimp on the Utilux spade connectors. If you are using two sockets you will need to buy a couple of spade type double adaptors (Dick Smith is easiest). Attach the socket using the two screws supplied. Use the P clips and screws to clamp the new cables to the back of the wall. It is quite OK to screw into the plywood rear wall. Make up a plywood cover and attach as per the photo above. We used any scrap pine we had to make a tiny frame. It doesn't need to be super strong - just bash proof if anything moves in a panic stop. Please DON'T leave this step out as exposed wiring is not a good move inside cupboards.

Think Ahead

Before commencing this project please dust off your crystal ball and try and look ahead a bit. Do you need one or two phones? Would this be a good spot to run 12 volt to your TV? Will you be installing a Winegard TV antenna? Will its supply be sourced in this area? Will you be doing an outside light such as the Fiamma? We CONTINUALLY get this sort of thing wrong which is why we raise it here! The main aim of this site is to assist others not to make as many errors as we have! We linked this job to getting a supply for the Winegaurd antenna. We simply extended the computer conduit around to the bathroom wall. Later on we will extend this a tiny bit more to power a light above the mirror. No we wont be running this along the roof - horror of horrors, but concealing the last little bit internally. Computer conduit looks good in corners as it is no larger than beading etc. and always looks like it was part of the original structure. We were very impressed with the way Swagman are running their cables. At the back of all cupboards they have a triangular duct. This is screwed in place and has a gorgeous carpet covering. The Winnebago system is good but a lot harder to run new circuits. Notice how the conduit shown in the photos above looks as though it was meant to be.

Bob Eustace

WARNING:- Polarity (+ or -) is VERY important on this project or you could damage any appliance plugged into the socket. Purple is POSITIVE and white is EARTH. The CENTRE pin on the socket is POSITIVE and the outer case is EARTH or NEGATIVE.

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