Around-Oz: Living the Dream!


Installing a Low Cost Lemaire Washing Machine in 2003/2004/2005 Winnebago Leisure Seekers


Usually you have to pay upwards of around $250.000.00 for a Swagman or Winnebago Classic if your little lady has her heart set on having a washing machine. My how things have changed with the introduction of the Lemaire mini auto washer from Russia. First up you can buy it from just $325.00 if you hunt around a bit. Advice about buying and the full specs is on this page. Being able to wash whilst on the road and bush camping solves one of motorhomings eternal problems - doing the dreaded laundry. Apart from the convenience and excellent hygiene, this solution very effectively addresses the problem of trying to be ever so discrete when doing the washing, as the general public just don't see you doing it as it is relatively easy to dry it as well in the bathroom! Even if you have a Swagman/Classic, with most models you still have to open an outside bin, and then all is revealed to the inquisitive public! With our system nobody knows you are doing the deed, as all waste water goes into the grey water tank and no one sees anything. We tend to wash before we move off in the morning, PROVIDED we know water is available a little bit further down the track that day - we find service stations are the best bet and we also have a water book from previous journeys. Yes, it will work on the move, but only on straight non hilly sections such as the Northern Territory. The hazard is that the out of balance mechanism clicks in and of course it stops. On our mobile tests no water splashed out though, so we leave it up to you as to how you use it. The downside is you are running 240 volts on the move and this could be hazardous in the event of an accident - both to you and any unsuspecting rescuers. The Lemaire will happily run on a 200 plus watt inverter/solar or a 1000 watt little Honda generator. A cycle takes about 40 minutes if you use soak. The Winnebago bathroom is simply the best available in Australia regardless of price paid for the motorhome. We must confess that when we first laid eyes on it we instantly thought what a daft idea fitting a small bath in a motorhome. My how our ideas have changed since using one - we simply love the thing to death, as it is just so practical and so very functional. So accolades of praise to Winnebago for such wonderful vision.

NOTE: We receive a heck of a lot of emails on choice of inverter. We suggest you go for an electrically isolated model - Jaycars are now all isolated. The cheaper Dick Smith etc. varieties could be iffy. We stick with the 100% Australian Selectronic. Our 200 watt unit happily runs the Lemaire even though the unit takes 260 watts on spin. Good inverters have a bit of reserve up their sleeves and this is how we get away with this. Another popular question is whether you need to secure the innards when travelling. Well after 18 months of extensive travelling taking no "precautions" ours is working perfectly.



The picture top left shows just how neat and original the finished project looks, and the photo above right shows a typical Winnebago bathroom in stock standard form before modification - in this case the mirror reverse of the first one we did. You do need some experience with working with wood for this major project, as it is highly visible, and it does help a lot if you have glued a few pipes together before. The fresh water plumbing side is very easy, as Winnebago very wisely use the top grade John Guest fittings - available from Camec. Looking at the finished installation above, you could think that yes, this is a very simple project. Well folks it isn't, as you have to do quite a lot of behind the scenes work, as Winnebago haven't allowed for this sort of project at all, which means that you must move the drains and water supply. The extra floor is the big sticking point and you MUST remove the water tank to gain access on some models. However, don't despair as some models are an absolute doddle as explained at the end of this article.


Initially we were going to install the unit on runners in the rear bin. This was fraught with problems particularly with regard to drainage. Chrissie hit upon the idea of putting it into the bathroom simply by removing some shelves and modifying the vanity cabinet. The photo's above show that there is just enough room over the lid to allow reasonable access without resorting to even cutting the benchtop. Yes, you can't actually easily see the controls, but you soon learn that 3 o'clock gives an average wash and 9 o'clock gives low water! If you free camp a lot you will find that these are the most common settings. Even when connected to mains we just don't fiddle! However, we do believe in bolting the machine to the floor and how to do this is covered in detail down below. Remember you simply don't want 17 kgs of washing machine coming up to meet you in the front seat during a panic stop! We truly worry about the many RVers travelling with a machine under the dining table!


So what we are doing is removing one half of the vanity unit - the section most people use for storing towels and the side usually closest to the outside wall. The photos above show what's inside the cupboard with dividers removed before we modified anything. The waste pipe has to be moved to the right about 100 mm otherwise the unit will almost touch the swivel toilet and of course this would look just awful. This puts the waste pipe directly under the sink. (some models already have it under the sink so you don't need to do anything) The blue and red pipes are the cold and hot water supplies. The blue hose in the centre goes to the pressure reducer used in caravan park hook ups. Some Winnebago models wont have this in this spot,so don't worry if you can't find it in your Winnie, as it actually makes life a bit easier. Winnebago use the excellent John Guest (JG) push to connect fittings for all water connections. These are the best thing since sliced bread, as they are just about fool proof, as long as you don't use damaged/marked hose. You simply push to connect! That's it! So in summing up, everything you see in the pictures above has to be moved at least 100 mm to the right and of course the holes in the floor plugged up somehow.



The picture above left shows the 40 mm waste water connections leading to the grey water tank - in this case directly under the bathroom. This wont be the same on all models. To gain access to these you MUST firstly remove the fresh water tank. Now because Winnebago build motorhomes from the chassis up (the walls/roof go on last) this really requires a bit of jiggling followed by lots of cursing. Once again though please be aware that your model maybe slightly different. Start by completely emptying the fresh water tank. To do this just leave the pump running until water ceases to flow. You can't hurt the pump by doing this. Next using a screwdriver remove the four screws holding the sensor wires onto the front side of the tank. You may have to hold the edges with a thumbnail if the rubber bit turns as well. Don't worry about noting down the colours as the waste tank is identical and this is NOT being removed. Undo the top section of the black plastic water filter. Remove the water inlet hose (white corrugated) and the breather hose - reinforced braid type. These are held on with silicone so they may need a bit of a tug or GENTLE prising off with a flat screw driver. Remove the small 1/2" elbow and then the large elbow. Remove the black metal tank strap. Now to the fun bit!!! Get ready to start swearing profusely! Sitting in front of the tank bring the left hand side forward whilst lifting up slightly. Move the tank as far as you can to the right. It should be flush up against the grey water tanks front edge. If it isn't move anything that's in the way - usually the 1/2" line going to the pump. Try to pull the tank towards you. The big problem is the radiused corners of the hatch. We used a bit of KY lubricating jelly on the corners (well it works for other "things"!) You MUST have a helper. With the tank removed it should look something like the photo above left. Using a Gyproc saw or hacksaw cut the elbow off as shown. Take care not to damage the sensor wires as these are fairly fragile and could be a nightmare to replace. Next cut off the second 40 mm elbow at the straight pipe. This is bound to have a little water in it, so have some old towels ready as sadly Winnebago have not fitted any form of drainage to the water bin which means that water just sits in the bottom - not good folks!



Next get inside the cabinet in the bathroom and undo the "P" trap. Again take care as it most definitely WILL contain water. Carefully cut through the pipe near where it enters the left side of the vanity. You should now be able to pull up the complete waste pipe. This goes in the bin. Now off to Bunnings for some shopping. You need an offcut of 40 mm waste water pipe, a 15 degree bend, a couple of straight couplings, a 40 mm plastic flange and 2 X 90 degree elbows. You also need a small bottle of blue solvent cement and a bottle of priming fluid as pictured above. None of this is expensive.



Next we need to drill a 2" hole to the right of the old one right through the floor - easy because it is just a plywood sandwich with foam in the centre. The thickness is usually 1 3/8". Lots of fiddling next to cut your pipes and get the old pipe to line up with the new hole. We found the 15 degree elbow worked great BUT it will no doubt be different on all models. The trick is to cut SMALL chunks off the fixed pipe and then dry fit to test the alignment. If the right answer eludes you could try using the gadget shown below right. It will bend in any direction and yes Bunnings have them for around $20.00. Make certain that you get rid of any rough edges on all pipe cuts - just grind a corner off an old file and use it as a scraper. Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to clean all joint ends with cleaning solvent before applying the blue cement. To make certain that you get a good fall place a stick under the pipes for at least 12 hours - as shown above left. Next pop into the bathroom and glue in a pipe around 400 mm long. Put the flange on the end of this. Looks really neat and so few professionals bother to do this and it does stop any bugs moving around easily. Now the "P" trap probably wont have a fitting to take the waste water from the Lemaire, and they don't actually make such a gadget to fit hand basins so we have to improvise. Now the big trap here is that the glue WONT work with the P trap plastic - odd that! The system shown below right however is working fine for us. Here is the work-a-round. Just take a couple of bits of 40 mm pipe and clamp and glue them onto the rear of the P trap using the blue glue - even though we know the glue wont actually stick to the P trap. Leave it clamped overnight. Drill a 1" hole through the lot next day. If you have a 7/8" holesaw use it and open it out to just under 1" using a rat tail file for the perfect job. Now you need an offcut of electrical conduit - ours came out of the bin on a building site - you can still see the dirt!. If it is loose in your hole just use a hair dryer on high and force it onto a broom handle until it enlarges for the end only. Cut the end that goes inside the "P" trap at, at least a 30 degree angle. The idea of this is to encourage the waste water to divert downwards and not spray upwards into the sink. It works a treat by the way with no water flowing back up into the sink. Get a tube of Liquid Nails (we used the $2.00 Bostik) and glued the lot together. Again leave overnight. Clean up any mess AFTER clamping with mineral turps as it is impossible to dissolve once set. Don't clamp toooooo tightly or you will force all the adhesive out and it may leak. Make CERTAIN that you roughen the surface of the P trap before gluing. Our bond has had constant use for 3 months now with zero problems - includes lots of dirt roads.



To remove the hot and cold pipes simply press a 1/2" AF spanner on the collet and pull the hose out. Brilliantly simple as long as you remember to pull out the red plastic circlip first. Removing the cabinet is fairly straight forward. Just be aware that STAPLES could be used on the left hand wall. Try not to damage the molding as you will need to reuse it. We wrecked ours and had to get our good mate Don at Winnebago Spare Parts to post us up another piece. It should wiggle a little if you have all screws out. Now it wont pull out because of the lip on the far right. Simply get a helper to pull/jerk the jamb out a little as you pull towards the bath. It does pop out eventually.



Now we start the woodwork which is actually very straight forward, but as it is a piece of furniture it is best to take your time. First up completely remove the centre divider. Take care again as it will be reused. Remove all staples using fine pliers. Now we need to cut off the end and halve the centre vertical style. Cut it about 10 mm from the left of the hinge holes. Placing sticky tape on the front minimises chipping. We used a jig saw guided with a piece of timber clamped to the front face. DON'T cut into the cross piece directly under the laminex. You MUST have a helper for all these steps or you will damage the front. You need a metre of 3/4 X 3/4 precision pine from Bunnings - about $4.00 (usually stored horizontally near the end of the timber aisle. Turn the centre plywood around and glue and screw the 3/4 square onto it. Remember you MUST maintain at least 415 mm from the far left of the cabinet. Use an off cut from the old shelf to make a cover for the old hole (see just below the P trap in the piccie below) We put a "rat hole" right at the back about 150 mm long and 60 mm high. This allowed the waste pipe from the Lemaire to easily fit into the cabinet plus the water inlet also enters here. Drill a 2" hole for the 40 mm waste pipe, 2 X 5/8" for the water and a 1" hole for the washing machine outlet hose - these are all on the centre shelf. Study the photo above right as this shows exactly how the water pipes are fitted up. Go to someone such as Camec and buy a JG Tee ($6) a straight connector ($4.00) and a 1/2" BSP male adaptor. Make certain you buy the red lock rings as for some odd reason they don't come assembled on the fittings. Watch out if you pick up the fitting instruction sheet as Camec FAIL to mention that you need them. They stop the pipes bumping out on corrugations if loose cargo strikes the pipes/fittings. Winnebago very wisely ALWAYS use them, but many caravan manufacturers sadly don't bother. You will also need a couple of metres each of blue and red hose ($1.65). Now back to Bunnings and buy a black plastic M&F reducer. (3/4" male to 1/2" female). Using teflon tape attach this to the 1/2" male adaptor. This is where the Lemaire cold water inlet pipe attaches exactly the same way as your normal washing machine. We put this just above the tee in the bottom of the cabinet. We get more phone calls on this section than any other! There are other ways of doing this. Get a JG tee, and a 1/2" BSP female adaptor from Camec etc. You then need a REDUCING nipple from Bunnings. These are black plastic and are usually marked with the PLASSON brand - 3/4" to 1/2" BSP - both ends male.



The photo above left shows the positions for the various pipe holes. This is a good time to put a few holes in the back so you can screw it onto the wall easily. Do the same with the base as Winnebago don't have enough holes. The plywood MUST BE FLUSH with the new cut you made on the style as there isn't much spare room at all. If you plan to run your Lemaire from an inverter you will need to get your "sparkie" to install another powerpoint. We got ours put inside the cabinet as it would have been illegal to have it near the lid UNLESS next to the existing mains unit above the bench but this meant having a hole in the bench - not tooooo good. Obviously if you want to run off mains you will however have to put a 3/8" hole in the benchtop. If you don't want to remove the plug just use a neat slot right in the back corner. Looking at the photo below right shows how the washing machine outlet hose has been moved to exit on the right side. This is very easy to do and you DO NOT have to undo any hose clamps etc. The open hose near the pump is a safety overflow - this is normal and we found absolutely zero water leaks out during normal use. Don't forget to screw the bottom grill back on at this point. As our machine had down 2 months work before this installation we took the opportunity of tightening the vee belt a little. Just undo the two bolts on the motor. Just in passing the engineering seems to be well thought out and there is nothing electronic to go wrong.



Now you definitely need to bolt down the machine or you will end up with a squashed toilet and damaged walls! There aren't a lot of options being a plastic case. We fitted a piece of 1/4W threaded rod in the rear foot. Just pull out the rubber foot bung. This trick sadly doesn't work on the front foot, so we put it through an existing hole in the base using big zinc plated washers called "car washers" to spread the load. Next we drilled holes in the floor and bolted it in position from inside the water tank locker again using car washers and a locknut. At this point we realised that the other rear foot had fallen down into the old waste pipe hole so we pulled it out and covered the hole with a piece of 3mm aluminium - photo below right. We screwed this in place rather than gluing it. This of course set everything out of wack level wise, as any lean is very noticeable as the cabinet is such a tight fit. Just put some ply on the opposite side floor to even things up.




The photo above left shows the water connections underneath. Putting the water tank back in is no easier that pulling it out! We found that the top tank bracket kept getting in the way so we taped it to the floor temporarily together with the sensor wires. We then cleaned up the sensor terminals and reattached them and re-connected all the water hoses using silicone as well as hose clamps. You need to put a 40 mm connector on the waste pipe then put a piece of pipe long enough to reach the P trap. Attach the Lemaire waste hose to the P trap using a worm drive clip (very tight). Make certain that all fittings are tight otherwise your bin will fill with water! It is most important to maintain a loop in this hose for two reasons. Washing machines work best if a portion of the hose is kept above the highest water level in the machine and in doing this you provide yet another "anti-smell" trap as water stays in the bend. All we did was use the existing plastic bend support and clipped it above the machine but still inside the cabinet. You can actually see where the clip comes through the wall if you look along the right side of the 3rd piccie from the top of this page. Just drill a 5/16" hole and poke it through. To finish off either try to salvage the trim on the discarded cabinet and re-glue or get another piece from Don in Spare Parts at Winnebago. The top photos doesn't show the wall trim fitted as yet as Winnebago are on Xmas leave.

Other Winnebago Bathroom Layouts


Please don't be put off doing this project if you have a slightly different Winnie bathroom layout, as in some models it is a very much simpler project - so far we have come across four layouts in the 2003/04 models. We are indeed fortunate to have access to all the models, as we do commercial websites. This certainly helps enormously! The bathroom shown above top left and right is a rear bathroom - usually found on models with swivel chairs. Now the big problem here is absolutely no access to the pipework under the floor. Yes, you could be very cunning and instal another small access hatch which of course would add more storage for things like gum boots, brooms etc. Now we haven't tried this, but what we would do is simply cut an inspection hole about 300 mm square in the floor under the cabinet and put a piece of ply on top of this - i.e. a false floor. In doing this you should get easy access to move the plumbing if needed. You may have to do this with some side mounted layouts where the bathroom also has no floor access. Really this is only a minor hiccup. However, here is the VERY GOOD NEWS on this particular one as shown above - you don't need to modify the plumbing at all as it seems from Serial number 5792 (around December 2003) Winnebago have started using a new and much more sophisticated P trap (with a horizontal chamber not clearly shown in the piccies below as we wanted to show the connection and water pipe layout). And guess what - it has a connection for the waste water from the Lemaire. As you can see from the two photos below of the same unit, it is an absolute dream to hook up the Lemaire plumbing wise - no more than about 30 minutes work as you do not have to move the 40 mm waste pipe at all! The bad news of course is that you do have to do a lot more fiddling with the cabinet as you must remove the draw - all pretty simple though if you take your time. This in our humble opinion is far easier than all the messing around we had to do with plumbing, removing water tanks etc. Not having under floor access means that you will have to work out another way of securing the machine - we suggest some sort of drop down clip on the rear. Now Winnebago in their wisdom have used this set up in side mounted bathrooms (no plumbing mods needed at all) BUT in the free space to the left of the sink, have installed the hot water control valves on the rear wall. This moves the Lemaire out about 40 mm from the wall. This reduces the clearance between the toilet and the the washing machine, however we feel it would just be acceptable. If you were very clever and had lots of time you could move this set up. If your sink hasn't got the new P trap you could order one from Don at Winnebago Spare Parts - about the most helpful guy in the factory and nothing is toooooo much trouble to him. We haven't researched the cost as Winnebago are closed for Xmas hols at present. The photo below left shows the new "P" trap with inlet spigot. The one on the right shows how you don't need to move the waste pipe as it is inside the vanity itself.



The model shown below left, in our view is an impossible case. It is used on rear bed models with the bathroom door at an angle. What we suggest is installing the machine externally on slide out runners in one of the side bins - it will easily fit height wise. Please email us piccies if you should come up with a better solution. We feel you would need to start again from scratch with the vanity to shoe horn it into the bathroom. Now if you have an older Winnebago with the cassette in the shower recess, all is not lost. Ray Fountain has devised an ingenious hinge mechanism. It mounts just inside the door jamb. When using the shower the Lemaire swings out on the hinge into the motorhome proper. When washing or travelling along it "hinges" back into the shower. We thought that this was a very neat work-a-round for a tricky problem. Sadly Ray and Jan don't have email so we will have to wait for a piccie until we catch up with them on the road again. The photo below right is in the Winnebago Free Spirit bathroom (a brilliant motorhome by the way!).



Again this looks like an impossible case but John Hall is working on one and we may have some good news very shortly! It is a fairly major install, however if you raise the sink unit and use a Hepworth trap it looks like it could be done. There is a huge "void" in the cupboard to the right of the sink and this is being "investigated"! There is also a slight problem with the bench under the windowsill. At a seminar run by Ronnie Penfold at the Casino Village in November 2004, Ron suggested that this problem could be solved by fitting a top mounted sink - this also looks very spunky! The photos below are in his rig, but show the basin he is referring to. We feel that this basin used in conjunction with a low profile Hepworth trap, a new vanity top, shortening of one door ($65.00 from Winnebago) would make a satisfactory, factory installed look, installation. The only minor drawback is the loss of storage under the sink.



Just a few final words on water usage. The ONLY drawback with this machine is the horrendous 60 litres used on the high setting. There are various ways around this because the Winnebago bathroom is simply the best in the business! It does work OK on the "low" setting, so just experiment. We have found that washing no longer than every second day makes life easier. You can only wash two towels at once. It will easily handle a pair of sheets. What we do when water is tight is to put the plug in the bath and "make wine" on the washing as we shower. Then we set the Lemaire on LOW water and turn the dial to spin (6 o'clock and uses around 21 litres). This beats completely hand washing and eliminates the chore of wringing out if you have arthritic hands. You could try putting a diverter valve into the outlet and piping this to the bathtub so that you could recycle the wash water on the next load by putting it back in via a small submersible shower pump. We used this method (with buckets though) before we installed it permanently, as originally we planned to instal it in a rear bin like just about everyone else does. Don't forget that you do have to manually pop in conditioner if you use it, as there is no provision for pre-loading it - just like the expensive commercial machines! Maybe they don't use conditioner in Russia perhaps? The only operational problems we have come up against are it absolutely hates "tiny" loads such as three tea towels. These will just not spin dry as it goes out of balance. The other one is don't use tooooooo much detergent in soft water areas. Use about half what you need at home.

This was a most satisfying project. Some friends reckon we are daft needing a washing machine, but generally most feel it is a great idea, and well worth the initial effort. The complete job took us three days, but using these instructions you could possibly do it in a full day with a helper, as hopefully most of the problems have been worked out.

Bob & Chrissy Eustace


WARNINGS:- Please read these instructions very carefully before commencing work, as you could reduce the resale value of your vehicle if you don't exactly adhere to the methods used. Please note that not all 2003/2004/2005 Leisure Seekers have exactly the same bathroom layout, so you may have to alter the instructions to suit your particular motorhome - particularly for units with a rear bed and the vanity in a corner as noted above. Be aware that the furniture used in Winnebagos is part of the structural integrity. For this reason please don't eliminate frame members and re-install using more scews than you removed. At time of writing Winnebago don't appear to offer a washing machine option in Leisure Seekers, however this could change at any time, so if you are a new buyer it could pay to check with Emu Plains. The furniture in most Winnebagos forms an integral part of the structure. Think about this before removing benchtops in bathrooms etc. If you are a "newbie" to motorhoming please be aware that water can get very scarce particularly along the north coast of WA, along the Nullarbor Plain and of course in a heck of a lot of the outback and the Northern Territory. If you travel the east coast you will have just about zero problems - just fill up with water each time you get fuel in a major town is the best bet. We tend to fill up with water in a scenic spot and then have either breakfast or smoko as we do the washing. We then fill up with water again before moving off. We never dump grey water on asphalt, (illegal in NSW for instance) but try to find grass away from waterways. The trick is NOT to wait until you get a mountain of washing. Many couples wash every day. We find every second day works fine.

TIPS:- The Lemaire instruction book truly is a total mess and very hard to read, as it is a literal translation from the Russian - it will really make you laugh in parts! If on first use the machine fills with water, but then absolutely nothing happens, it has simply gone into soak mode. Everything is working fine if you hear the odd click coming from the timer. On the road, using soak is a good move, as just about no power is used. We use Liquid Napisan Colour Safe in all white washes (tends to spot on coloured in this machine) and Radiant or Dynamo Liquid. Dissolving powders is a bit of a pain and can lead to bleach spotting, so the slightly dearer way we feel is the better option. Be careful not to use toooooooo much as areas with soft water will cause too many bubbles (Cairns/Coffs Harbour and just about all of Tasmania, etc.) - best to start with just a capful. Later on we will be fitting an aluminium tray with drain, under the machine, so that if we ever should get suds overflow, it will be directed outside the RV and not under cupboards etc. The machine is also fitted with an overflow pipe which terminates just above floor level. It is EXTREMELY good practice to extend this pipe to vent outside the vehicle. Don't forget to empty out the lint filter bag every 4 or so washes. This is easier when it is dry.

UPDATES:- We have had one report of a chap with problems getting a spare pump during warranty. We will keep you posted on how he progresses. Camec are now stocking lint filters should anyone ever need one. An Alpine owner has ingeniously fitted a unit into a rear wardrobe and this will be added to the site shortly. The Caroma "P" trap with dishwasher spigot is now available from larger plumbers suppliers - part number 102112 - expect to pay around $21.00. Pictured below left is a unit we have just fitted to our Winnebago. The photo below right shows our original "home made" method. Please note that we no longer suggest this method as there is a small chance of it failing. Please note that the spigot on the Caroma is smaller than the hose supplied with the Lemaire. No dramas though as you can easily fix this. You will need to remove the straight bit from the end of the hose - Stanley knife works fine. Use lots of silicone in the corrugated bit and get the worm drive clip on really tight. We ALWAYS use Loctite RTV Silicone gasket - you get it at most ball bearing shops. The huge advantage is that it comes in a resealable tube. We seem to get 18 months out of a tube on odd jobs, so it's good value.

 

We have had a couple of emails asking for advice on tightening the coupling nuts. In household environments this really isn't necessary, however on corrugated roads in a motorhome you can't be too careful. Multi grips and stillsons leave a dreadful mess behind. The gadget shown below left is called an Anaconda and you can get one from Bunnings for under $20.00. It allows you to grip anything without marking the surface (ideal for chrome taps). It has a strong rubber strap.

 


UPDATE 22/2/05
It is most satisfying that we continue to receive photos of ingenious modifications that RVers make to adapt to seemingly impossible situations! In one case from as far away as Germany! The photos below show the great ideas of Margaret and David of Casino Village. They installed the Lemaire in their 5 year old Winnebago. As this had the old style bathroom, they had a few problems to solve. First up the water supply. David simply cut the shower wand hose off near the taps. He then fitted a standard Neta hose connector. Ditto to the wand and the supply to the washing machine. You simply swap over to the use you want. The big advantage is you can easily provide any water temperature - in Tassie for instance you can't really use cold water in winter.


 

David found with the machine in place you could still use the loo! It also gave you a "table" to rest any reading material on! We really liked the method used to avoid wet feet. David cut the centre out of a plug and attached it as per the left photo below. This drops into the plug hole in the shower base. The outlet hose from the Lemaire drops into this standard piece of poly waste pipe. All in all a very neat solution. Earlier in this story we mentioned Ray Fountains swing out version. Well we caught up with Ray at Christmas 2005 and it is still on the drawing board. A special thank you to all who have contributed to this wealth of information. There are now over 100 installations! Amazing!


 

UPDATE 14/5/05

Winnebago Explorer full timers Alan and Diana Ware have written in to advise that you can get a Lemaire at Bi-Rite Electrical, Station Road, Burpengary - Robert Newberry (07) 3888 9555 and it's $288.00 for cash and always in stock.


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