Around-Oz: Living the Dream!


Installing a Roamsafe Safety Door on Most Model Winnebagos and Other Brands


The Roamsafe Safety Door in our view is simply the best door of its type at any price, and it really looks good as well. At present at least, it is 100's of dollars cheaper than the nearest competition. At just $425.00 it is within the reach of most motorhomers and is a truly worthwhile investment, that will add value to your rig and possibly outlast it! Ours has now been in use for a month and we have had absolutely zero problems, and more importantly to us, it doesn't "rattle and groan" as you drive along. Now you might be wondering why such a simple non-technical project as screwing on a screen door, has ended up on these pages? Well, as quite often happens to us, we received the first one off the production line and Kerry Jackson from Roamsafe flew it down to Launceston the day before the start of the CMCA Tasmanian Rally at Quercus Park. Now it came with ZERO instructions - Kerry for some odd reason assumed we knew all about doors? Ouch he got that well and truly wrong - we didn't even know what a "keeper" was!



Anyway, we started to fit it at the rally and in no time at all, in true CMCA camaraderie, we had collected 10 willing helpers! This didn't "help" at all, as we were all trying to figure out where the striker/keeper went and ALL felt it should go in front of the jamb. Wrong! It quickly became known as the 24 hour door by the CMCA wags! A quick call to a very amused Kerry eventually sorted us out! The photos above incidentally taken on beautiful Bruny Island off Tasmania, show how the door enhances the appearance of your RV, plus it looks like a really strong door, so it has a lot of deterrent value. Putting a picture of the Gulf Development Road in there was a stroke of genius by Kerry - nothing else like it in the world that we have come across. The door comes very well packed in a stout cardboard box and all the loose bits and pieces are wrapped up in plastic. The lock comes completely assembled which we thought was a nice touch. So first up lets do all the easy stuff! Remove the 12 screws holding on the old screen door. Don't lose these as they will be "recycled" later. Remove the black plastic lock and striker for the screen door and then screw the screws back into the SAME holes on the back of the door and on the door jamb (the bit that goes round the opening).


With a helper place the new door in the opening and insert the 12 screws - do not tighten at this stage. There is lots of adjustment in the holes in the hinges, so next we need to get the gap along the right hand side of the door fairly equal whilst keeping a tiny bit of upward force on the door to stop it rubbing on the bottom. Do this by tightening the bottom hinges and then twisting slightly to line up the top hinge and then tightening all screws. In a perfect world the gap all round should be 5 mm. Now in practice you are going to come across doors that have a bowed frame. Kerry talks a lot about this on his Website. If you have a crook frame, all is not lost as there are a couple of work arounds that we will cover later.



You need to remove the black round knob on the main Hehr Door locking mechanism. Just turn it anti clockwise. If this doesn't work you will have to hold the shaft with a pair of long nosed pliers and turn the knob. The photo above left shows the knob removed (just above the screwdriver). Replace the knob with the nifty rectangular black plastic one supplied with your new door. It screws on clockwise as tight as you can get it to go. You do not need pliers. The white circle on the photo above shows the correct fitting of the new knob/handle. The long bit should point to the right when viewed from inside the motorhome. (see photo below right) Whilst talking about the Hehr lock many motorhomers fail to realise that the bottom lock will not work unless the knob is kept turned fully clockwise. Tony Toohill at Winnebago Warranty at Emu Plains, told us that it is the top "please help me" phone call he receives. So if your bottom lock doesn't and you aren't fitting a Roamsafe just yet, then just tighten this knob and it will work fine again.



Back to the new knob. This is much thinner than the old one and is changed to allow zero interference with door seals. You can get away without changing it if you never go on dirt roads. Now Kerry has accidentally solved the external Hehr lock not working problem. As the new lock is held on with a screw it is very simple to ensure that the handle goes on very tight and straight. You can now INSTANTLY notice if the lock is undone as it will no longer be horizontal. Interestingly the new knob doesn't seem to come undone all the time like the old one.



Before doing the next bit you need to understand how a "deadbolt" lock works. If you look at the two silver tongues or "bolts" coming out of the lock on the new door you will notice that they don't stick out very far. Now press the top smaller one with your finger and it will extend. The door could never shut with it extended this far. What happens is the small one hits the striker and allows the longer one to extend to fully lock the door.

We are now ready to fit the "keeper". This is that stainless steel gadget - beautifully made it is toooooo! First up we need to work out if all is well dimension wise. With the screen door open, hold the keeper with the "lip" on the edge of the rear door jamb. Make sure that the moving black lever is NOT in the vertical position. Hold it just below the Hehr striker and roughly with the small hole on the slotted side in the centre of the small bolt. Keeping your fingers on the back, try shutting the door. If it works you will hear the second bolt extend and "deadlock". The idea is to have vertical clearance in the slot. When you are happy with this put a pencil mark across the top.



Using the keeper as a jig and holding on your pencil mark drill the top hole through the jamb - use a 5 mm drill. Remove the keeper and carefully redrill the hole in the jamb out to 10 mm. Go right through the foam on the other side. Place one of the mushroom headed nuts through the jamb, put the keeper on top and attach a 5 mm screw. Try the door. It should lock perfectly provided the little lever is NOT vertical.



If it all works OK, drill the bottom 5 mm hole and then remove the keeper and drill the lower 10 mm hole. Reassemble and test once again. Because there is slight give in some jambs you need to get into the habit of not slamming the door but more "pressing" it locked. A bit about the "snib" on the keeper. This we feel is a very nice touch. In the vertical position it stops the door from dead bolting. Kerry's idea here is that you have it up at night etc. In an emergency you then have to only open the normal Hehr handle to get out. With the snib in the down position you have to hold the Hehr and the Roamsafe handles to get out. Lots of thought has gone into the development of this door folks! Now if your door doesn't lock perfectly every time is can mean that you have a bowed jam. What this does is prevent the deadbolt from operating. Kerry has allowed for this problem and in your parts kit you will find a tiny white nylon "mushroom". Insert this into the small hole in the striker/keeper. What this does is increase the width of the keeper so the deadbolt will then work normally.



Magnets are used to hold the screen door against the main door - this is for when you clip the main door open and don't want a screen door. Hehr have used a mixture of ideas in this area for reasons not quite clear to us. Initially all Hehr doors came with magnets as standard for instance! The Roamsafe door comes with the magnets attached, so all you have to do is screw the opposite bits onto the inside of the main Hehr door. The photo above right shows a completed assembly.



The easiest way to do this, other than precision measure, is to place the bits onto the magnets, bring the doors together and mark the outside with pencil dots. Separate and screw on using the pencil dots as a guide. This worked OK for us, but as we help others fitting doors we may come up with a template or a less hit and miss method. The biggest problem faced by Kerry was the slight design changes in the Hehr doors.



The photo above shows the keeper/striker viewed from the outside. You can if you so wish remove the grey foam sealing strip as it really isn't needed due to the far better top quality seal that Roamsafe use. The only reason we haven't removed it yet is that we are currently on the road and away from the workshop. The photos below show the excellent good looks and terrific visibility from the inside of the motorhome. It certainly lets the outside in! The door is far thicker than the Hehr screen door it replaces. These photos clearly show the interface locking feature on the right hand side of the door. In our view it is simply the best looking door available regardless of cost. The "red thingo" on the right of the frame has nothing whatsoever to do with the door - it's a shoe horn!


This lovely photo was taken on the Derwent River at New Norfolk in Tassie. You can actually feed platypus in the daylight at this spot. We estimate that you could do this job in under an hour and with practice about 15 minutes. All you need tool wise is an electric drill, a 5 mm drill, a 10 mm drill and a Phillips head screwdriver. These instructions are very printer friendly so it could be a good move to print them out before you start. This project is well within the capabilities of most DIYers! We are tickled pink with ours, as we haven't had a proper safety door since three motorhomes back and we really missed having one living in Queensland. It is great being able to sleep at night with the door open and wonderful for those of us with pets. We absolutely recommend the Roamsafe Safety Door.

Bob & Chrissy Eustace


WARNINGS:- Please follow the measuring directions on the Roamsafe Website BEFORE ordering your door, as Hehr have made several versions with tiny measurement variations. Pay particular attention to "bow" in the door frame in your vehicle. Please note that we have nothing to do with the selling of these doors, so kindly contact Kerry direct with any queries. Be certain to push on the lock before inserting the key to ensure that the deadbolt has fully extended. It can sometimes stick due to the serrations on the sides of the deadbolt. Try to avoid closing the door from the inside by pulling on the screen door handle. This could lead to the handle waering - a common problem with all safety doors.

 

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